HVRMINN

–  Could you tell us about yourself and your brand ‘http://hvrminn.com/’ ?

HVRMINN&CO. is representative of my brands, HVRMINN, EPONYMOVS and VIETTO NYC. I started the company with intentions to carry out a made-to-measure suiting business, but we’ve expanded

– How did you guys get into the world of design?- After graduating how did you start working?

I bought my first custom tailored suit when I was 18. It was made by a master tailor from Japan, since then, I’ve always had an interest in tailored clothing and design. As soon as I graduated, I started a made-to-measure business at my small studio in Chelsea with my tailor. As I moved to a bigger space later on, I established a partnership with Martin Greenfield Clothiers in Brooklyn. I soon realized though that it wouldn’t be enough to satiate my creative capacity, so I decided to launch EPONYMOVS, a ready-to-wear label, which has fewer parameters to work within; I’m able to design jewelry, bags, shoes, sportswear, and even suits. 

– Where do you find your inspiration?  or   What’s the inspiration behind your this / upcoming Collection?

This question is always the most difficult. I don’t ever have a single source of inspiration that drives the aesthetic direction of the brand, or a collection. For me it’s more about utilizing a collection of experiences and an accumulation of diverse references.  

– What does fashion/make design mean to you?

Fundamentally, as a creative human being, the primary purpose of my designs is living a productive life. It doesn’t have to be fashion design as long as it satiates my desire to create beautiful aesthetics and impeccable crafts Design is about crystalizing individuality and providing pleasure to myself and to my customers. That is to say, fashion prompts satisfaction to me by means of creative (productive) activities, and it provides my customers with a satiable persona to my psychology apparatus.

 – How do you balance creativity with commerce?

The answer to this question depends on how you define good design. To me, good design ought to be appreciated by the general public, even when there is no marketing agenda behind it. In other words, good design axiomatically covers commerciality. I don’t design hoping to make commercial pieces; I design pieces I hope people will purchase because they appreciate it.

– Main Website: www.hvrminn.com
We’re launching e-commerce and opening our first boutique in New York this April.

HVRMINN

HVRMINN

HVRMINN

LCM : soulland

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Soulland is a Danish menswear brand, founded in 2002 and owned by creative director Silas Adler and CEO Jacob Kampp Berliner. Creative director of Soulland, Silas Adler, was awarded Designer of the Year at DANSK Fashion Awards 2012.

With design principles and aesthetics deeply rooted in Scandinavian artisanship, Soulland aims to produce high quality menswear in forward thinking directions, whilst always bearing its legacy in mind. The Adler Fedora truly embodies the philosophy of Soulland; a traditional men’s fedora fused with a baseball cap, handmade in Copenhagen. Soulland presents two seasonal collections alongside two mid-season capsule collections per year.

Yusuke Kagari

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First of all, I want to introduce today’s interviewee, Yusuke Kagari.
He is a Japanese designer of leather items, especially bags, wallets, cases, shoes, lights etc… Whatever he puts his mind to. He has lots of collections, the most populer of which is “WALL”.  Now he is selling online and using a few outlets in popular Japanese department stores, he also has a shop in Hong Kong. He is a really friendly guy, with a deep knowledge of wall and strong obsessiveness in his own designs. Very unique! That’s why I am big fan!

(12.30mag) So, I am really curious about your career. How did you get into designing? After graduating how did you start working?
(YK) To be honest,  I didn’t think that I wanted to be a designer when I guraduated school.  After graduating, I was working and when I had free time I created leather bags. Then my friend started to sell my bags in his shop.  After the sales started to become quite good I decided to persue it full time, then now I’m creating .

(12.30mag) Can you show us your favorite piece in your collection? And how often you make a new collection?
(YK) Most people think that this is the Yusuke Kagari design.
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It was created in 2006, inspired by WALL and is still the best selling item.  At that time, I didn’t have any knowleadge of skills or leather, that’s why it’s quite a unique design with mind boggling ideas. Nowadays I make new collections anually, but not 2014. The next one is coming soon…

Oh I see. You already have a lot of designs and design collaborations! But I still wanna know about your upcoming collection!!
By the way,

(12.30mag) How do you find your inspiration? What’s the inspiration behind your collection?
(YK) Basically it comes any time, any place and from any information.
When I’m creating new things, I just touch leather and do whatever I feel. Not thinking, just doing it. But now my style has changed a little for creating collections. Before making something I’m thinking from the start how to make it. 
And also some information is my unique spice.
For example, I heard about war. When people were alive during the war they didn’t have enough food, so some people ate leather. (Actually not real)  And then I got inspiration from this. How leather works when it gets mixed with water, and I tried it.  This is the one which I was inspired from information.
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And the “WALL” collection was inspired by WALL, each of the items are a different size and have a different face. Everything is not exactly the same.
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(12.30mag) Interesting!
(YK) But this means only a few people like my design, not everyone. Cos unique!

(12.30mag)  I wanna know how you balance creativity with commerce? Because most designers say that the createve balance with commerce is difficult for designers. Do you think the same way? If yes, in what way do you need help? (need press more, or sale place, need help people …
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(YK) I don’t wanna be rushed. I just wanna sell to people who really like my designs. My designs are not commercal items. I’m making them by hand. The important thing is that I show my ideas, my visual world, and all of the Yusuke Kagari world,  if people like my ideas, I wanna connect with that person who has the same feeling.
I don’t care how good the sales are or not.

(12.30mag)  When I saw your design, I thought about the use of really simple color, especially your use of a lot of white. Is it your idea or do you just like it?
(YK) Because I want the customer to make their own color by themselves. That’s why I use white quite often.

Ok, thanks!! So now I want to ask something for the benefit of students and young designers.

(12.30mag) How much would you credit the college you have studied at regarding your success?
(YK) The financial resoures credit was ¥0. But after I built my company, I wanted to make a gallery and design space which were really popular and all of the hot designers had it in 2007~2010. At that time, the financial resources credit was 150,000 yen.

(12.30mag) Do you think that people should go to Fashion school or something similar if people want to become a designer?
(YK) I don’t know, because I graduated somewhere really different to a major school. But now I’m designer. Depends on the person and depends on what you wanna do. School is not the only important thing…

(12.30mag)  Do you think that you got something positive from school? Or a benefit?
(YK) Ummmm. I was happy that we had lots of different types of teachers in my school. Especially my favourite teacher who was a designer of fabric, I could feel a real designer face to face. Also I had studied from her about the textile of mind.

Thank you Yusuke Kagari!

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